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A jewelry box's value hides in tiny stamps: 585/750 (gold), 925 (silver), maker's marks — and in signed costume pieces most people assume are worthless. Fine jewelry has a metal-value floor; signed vintage costume (Trifari, Miriam Haskell, Eisenberg) sells on design alone, sometimes for more than real gold pieces.
375/9K, 585/14K, 750/18K = gold; 925 = sterling. Inside ring bands, on clasps, on earring posts. Unmarked isn't always fake — but marked is instantly priceable.
Maker signatures on costume pieces (Trifari, Coro, Haskell, Weiss, Eisenberg, Schiaparelli) create collector value. Check every clasp for tiny signatures.
Real diamonds/gemstones need testing, but old-cut diamonds in antique settings are frequently missed by sellers — worth verifying before pricing anything ornate as 'costume'.
Art Deco and Victorian pieces command premiums. Mid-century modernist silver (Scandinavian) has a strong design-collector market.
Broad secondhand-market ranges to orient you — the exact value of your item depends on the precise model, edition and condition. Scan it for the real number.
Point your camera at the item. FlipTip identifies the exact model, edition and era, checks real listings on your country's marketplaces, and gives you a price range, a sell-speed score and a worth-it-or-skip verdict — before you buy or sell.
Find the karat stamp (375, 585, 750, or 9K/14K/18K) with a loupe — clasps and inner bands. No stamp? A magnet test rules out steel (gold isn't magnetic) but plated brass passes too; scan it with FlipTip for identification, then acid-test anything promising.
Yes — signed pieces from collected makers sell for $20–$500+. Check clasps and backs for tiny signatures before selling any 'fake' jewelry by the bag.
Only unmarked, damaged or truly generic pieces. Signed, antique or well-designed gold jewelry sells above melt to actual wearers and collectors.
Thrift store, garage sale, flea market or your own attic — scan the item and know in seconds if it's a find or a pass.
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