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The first question with any silverware is sterling or plated — it changes the value 20x. Sterling (marked 925, STERLING, or hallmarked) has melt value as a floor plus collector value on top; silverplate is worth mostly its looks. The tiny marks on the back tell you which you have.
'STERLING', '925', or official hallmarks (lion passant in the UK) = solid silver. 'EPNS', 'Silverplate', 'A1', 'IS' = plated, minimal metal value.
Sterling is 92.5% silver — weigh it and the silver price sets a floor. Weighted pieces (candlesticks with filled bases) contain far less silver than they weigh.
Georg Jensen, Tiffany, early American coin silver and ornate Victorian patterns sell well above melt. Pattern identification matters for flatware.
Full flatware services for 8/12 with serving pieces in the original chest sell best; odd pieces sell to pattern-matchers.
Broad secondhand-market ranges to orient you — the exact value of your item depends on the precise model, edition and condition. Scan it for the real number.
Point your camera at the item. FlipTip identifies the exact model, edition and era, checks real listings on your country's marketplaces, and gives you a price range, a sell-speed score and a worth-it-or-skip verdict — before you buy or sell.
Look for marks: STERLING, 925, or country hallmarks mean solid silver. EPNS/plate marks mean plated. No marks usually means plated or another metal. Scan the marks with FlipTip and it identifies the standard and maker.
Check the pattern first. Common patterns near melt value can go to a refiner; recognized patterns and makers sell 30–100% above melt to collectors — never melt Jensen or Tiffany.
No — tarnish is superficial and expected. Don't machine-polish antique pieces; over-polishing softens details and can reduce collector value.
Thrift store, garage sale, flea market or your own attic — scan the item and know in seconds if it's a find or a pass.
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